Swanky Cocktail Adventures: Bistrologist

Posted on April 28, 2013 by forest

Bistrologist
16, avenue de Friedland
75008 Paris

With new and emerging cocktail scenes, it’s sometimes the bartender more than the bar itself that makes a place. At least a few Paris cocktail spots have shown a downhill slide after losing some star bar power (Mama Shelter, l’Hotel, to name a few…) So, it’s interesting to keep an eye on not just bars, but the staff movements too. I’ve seen Greg Hazac’s work as he’s gone through various positions at le Secret, Royal Monceau, le 29, and, most currently, the Bistrologist.

The Bistrologist is the new incarnation of le Secret after its temporary closure. The same sexy and seductive décor remain with its dark wooden walls, soft chairs, and crisp white cloths on tables topped with a single flower. The airy, comfortable terrace also remains for sophisticated sipping with a side of pretty people watching.

While the deco may have stayed the same, there have been some positive tweaks to the original that improve the overall experience. Greg has successfully incorporated aspects of his own recent venture, le 29, with those of le Secret from the sleek silver picks to bespoke cocktails offered on the new menu “comme au 29.”

The menu offers just short of twenty house creations at 15 Euros each, based on a range of spirits and focusing on fresh herbs, house syrups, teas and a few surprises such as crème de marron (chestnut puree) or peanut butter. There’s enough range to please palates seeking something easygoing (think gins, vodkas, elderflower, cucumbers, etc.) to those wanting a more forceful flavor profile (think browns and bitters.) The one option that makes me laugh is the tic tac martini (vodka, citrus and tic tac syrup), which seems pretty much like a slightly more mature version of a Jet 27 drink.

For more convivial cocktail options, they do them in a larger format for sharing (60 Euros.) For longer nights or larger crowds, you can also order them by the bottle at 190+ Euros, served in heavy cut-glass decanters with a side of ice for an indulgent DIY drinking experience.

On the night of my visit, there was no dry vermouth, so Greg made a variation of a smoky martini with No. 3, Laphroaig, Noilly Pratt Ambré, and syrup. I know some bar folks who refuse to make smoky martinis on the grounds that gin and whisky shouldn’t mix. But, I find it an interesting change from time to time as the gin makes for a cleaner delivery of the peat smoke up front (as opposed to it hiding in the back as it might with a straight glass of the Laphroaig in this case.) Next I tried the mescal-based Baiser d’Iki with tea syrup and bitters, which was a good follow up to a smoky martini.

Of course, I’m hoping for some dry behind bar soon to accompany the selection of gins on the menu: Bombay Sapphire, Broker’s, Tanqueray (TLD and 10), Beefeater, Hayman’s Old Tom, Hendrick’s, Sipsmith, No. 3, Plymouth Navy, Monkey 47 and Junipero.

They are looking to kick up the food quality a notch with more attentive sourcing and homemade dishes. I tried a burger which was oozing plenty of toppings and just messy enough to verify its made-on-site cred. For more bar snacking options, they’ve got caviar d’aubergine (8 Euros), caviar Osceittre (130 Euros) and plenty of choice in between (with most prices in the low teens). For those seeking something beyond cocktails, as with many of the current new places, they are focusing on natural as well as biodynamic wines.

Overall, it’s a seductive spot with the potential to charm with its personalized cocktails. Given the location, ambiance and prices, I imagine that it could easily pull in a crowd of young professionals and in-the-know tourists off the Champs.

And, as for Greg, he’s an interesting barman to follow. He’s content to march to the beat of his own drum and focusing on his bespoke creations rather than chasing too many cocktail trends. He appreciates an element of elegance and class and strives to bring that to the customer drinking experience without snobbish affectations. Basically, he’s just a really nice guy trying to make drinks that please his patrons, so I hope his re-installation in this space pull in an equally nice crowd who appreciate it.

Polynesian Cocktail Adventures: Dirty Dick

Posted on March 20, 2013 by forest

Dirty Dick
10 Rue Frochot
75009 Paris

Change is good. And, I’ve seen some especially good change when it comes to the Pigalle in the last few years. Paris’ red-light district has gone from cocktail dead zone to cocktail destination thanks to the arrival of bars like Glass, Kremlin and Rock’n'Roll Circus. And the latest place to bring a bit of kicky change to the area? The naughtily named Dirty Dick, which is giving Pigalle some Polynesian personality with its tiki themed bar and drinks. I can get down with a bit of South Seas style sipping, so I stopped in with one of my fav drinking partners to check things out.

With several busy bars already under their belts, the team behind the Dirty Dick went all out with their latest venture. While the typical touches like rattan furniture, palm tree wall paper, and tiki masks, give it the appropriate island feel, they’ve added some extras that knock the deco up a notch. Two tall totem poles – specially carved for the space and weighing a hefty 350 kilos each – frame a lush wall of tropical plants. American artist, David “Gonzo” Gonzalez created another kind of lush wall with his mural of a flirty bikini bottom-clad beach beauty. A sweet soundtrack of tropical bird tweets loops in the loos. And, the night we were there, the place was already packed with neighborhood locals enjoying the festive vibe and fun drinks.

The friendly team behind the bar – including Scotty (previously of the UFO) and Christina (of the Kremlin) – know how to do a good time as well as a good drink. Before looking at the menu, I sheepishly ordered a dry martini. Being in a tiki joint, I “should” go for one of the rum creations… but, you know, the martini thing, it’s what I do. But guess what? There’s already one on the menu with their special grapefruit spin. Class. My Edinburgh martini was served with a twist and a shot of extra vermouth on the side at 10 Euros. Nice.

After that, I was ready to move onto the rum-based Cutback Conquest, which offers the satisfying balance of a well-made sour made more mature and interesting thanks to the Guinness reduction’s bitter beer bite, spiking through the otherwise easy-going cocktail for a pleasant surprise. The rest of the menu also reflects this element of the unexpected or a juxtaposition of sorts: An elegant un-refinedness, if you will (as opposed to an unrefined elegance). This classy kitsch works perfectly for a tiki bar. With its ass-kicking punches poured into over the top ceramic mugs, tiki, by nature is not a subtle cocktail culture. But a truly good tiki drink can celebrate both its fun factor as well as showcase something more interesting and complex – and that’s where Dirty Dick is going.

The menu features 17 cocktails with a good mix of classics and house creations, mainly based (of course) on rum, but with other options including vodka, tequila, whiskey, etc. Lighthearted descriptions don’t divulge everything, but instead evoke a feeling or idea. Prices range from 6 to 14 Euros, based roughly on the amount of liquor in your libation; while the Ba-Tiki-Da at 6 Euros has about 5 centiliters of booze, the Slurricane at 14 Euros has close to 12 (watch out!).

Additionally, they offer up three convivial punch bowls for sharing that sound both fun and deadly like the Amazombie, based on the original Zombie, which promises to turn the “living into dead,” or the She Sells Sea Shells sold in a conch shell. And it just gets better with a selection of over 52 different rums on the shelf. Also of note, they are open 7/7 and have a well-ventilated smoking room in the back.

Dirty Dick shows that this group of bars and its associated staff have the know-how to put together a worthy watering hole and have managed to make a classy tiki joint without losing personality or credibility. Two thumbs up. The only problem is that now that another new great drinking destination has opened up in the area, I’ve just moved to a new neighborhood. So, I just keep reminding myself that “Change is good, right?” … and fortunately, my new place is on a direct metro line to Dirty Dick.

Shellfish Cocktail Adventures: the Mary Celeste

Posted on March 7, 2013 by forest

Mary Celeste
1 rue Commines
75003 Paris

I’ve been talking a lot lately about Paris turning a new cocktail page and coming out ahead of trends rather than bowing to them. And once again, the group behind the Candelaria provides a very fine example of just that with their third venture, a restaurant and bar, which showcases their ability to come up with fresh fare.

While I love a low-light lounge or a dark divey bar, the open, airy and light space that is the Mary Celeste brightens the bar scene with something new. Large windows let in plenty of light to the main floor, which features a friendly island bar. A downstairs area, where the tiny kitchen is located, handles the runoff from the main floor.

Owners, Josh, Adam & Carina, have put together a topnotch international team, including notable barman Carlos Madriz (previously of l’Hotel) and Chef Haan Palcu-Chang (previously of Le Verre Volé as well as Europe’s only Michelin-starred Thai restaurant.) Palcu-Chang’s creative small plates -including offerings like homemade Kimchee which demonstrate his passion for Asian cuisine – are available from 7pm onwards. But, from 5pm to 7pm, it’s “Oyster Happy Hour” with fresh terroir-focused oysters at a buck a bivalve! The oysters, served alongside tasty, crisp flat bread and Palcu-Chang’s mignonette, which incorporates coriander and a bit of heat, were delicious enough to convince me to indulge in them two nights in a row. I’m digging both the oyster concept and the fact that they open earlier than most bars. But, we’re here to talk cocktails…

My first experience was an opening night event, and the place was packed with friends and fans of the group enjoying free Brooklyn pours, beer cocktails and oysters at happy hour prices. My Oliver’s Twist exemplifies Carlos’ innate talent for creating well balanced cocktails with the Brooklyn lager, Rabarbaro, lemon and Tabasco bringing a successful combination of sweet, bitter, sour and heat that stands up to the oysters and their accompanying mignonette. As I sipped and slurped, the sounds of the Steve Miller band on vinyl filled the air thanks to the vintage Lenco turntable. Sweet!

I returned the following night for Oyster Happy Hour to see how some of their cocktails stacked up to the tasty sea creatures. Carlos suggested a Dear Apollonia (grappa, Manzanilla sherry & crème de peche) as something that would please a martini-loving palette. Not only does that describe my palette, but a martini can be an ideal pairing with oysters. I know that just the mention of grappa can make the un-initiated tremble. However, the quality of the spirit and the addition of the crème de peche make for a lighter more approachable drink that works for newbies as well as more experienced cocktail drinkers. Plus, considering the mignonette, it’s a better pairing with these oysters than a straightforward martini.

I progressed to a Nord Sud, which was eliciting praise from a fellow drinker and shows off a nice balance of apple brandy, sherry fino, homemade grenadine and citrus. I finished with the Dottore Cipriano, made with herby vermouth, mescal and enough amero to make it interesting without overpowering. And the smokey touch of the mescal made it a perfect and somehow comforting finish to this trio.

While plenty of people will go for the Single Ladies (Absolut, muscadet syrup and lemon), the menu of 10 or so cocktails at 12 Euros proves a nice vehicle for introducing customers to less common ingredients like ameros, vermouths and sherries. Carlos explained that they are going for more aperitif-style cocktails that veer more towards something delicate than in-your-face. They also feature beers from Brooklyn Brewery and a selection of natural wines. And I hear that Simon will be heading over to cover on Carlos’ days off, which means the Mary Celeste packs serious talent behind the stick seven nights a week.

I suspect that the combination of the more lighthearted approach to the decor and drinks and the trust-inspiring integrity of this group when it comes to scrutinizing the quality of ingredients, means this venture will appeal to a wider audience without compromising the quality that hardcore foodies and cocktillians demand. The Mary Celeste is a breath of fresh air, well worth a detour and I look forward to many more Happy Hours at the bar.

70′s Glam Cocktail Adventures: le Coq

Posted on December 19, 2012 by forest

le Coq
12 Rue du Château-d’Eau
75010 Paris

The brains behind le Coq have more than enough cocktail cred to make a bar work on their names alone. Local industry experts, Thierry Daniel and Eric Fossard have teamed up with cocktail maestro Tony Conigliaro of 69 Colebrooke Row. They’ve brought along Marcis Dzelzainis from London to oversee the show. And pros like these are more used to defining trends than chasing them, so it’s no surprise that the bar steers clear of the status quo.

While so many bars make nods to prohibition and its speakeasies, le Coq looks towards a different decade for inspiration: the 70’s. And, its location on a 10eme arrondisement backstreet, rock chic deco and stark black walls give bit of illicit edge.

My initial encounter with le Coq was an opening night party. The place was packed with industry names itching to get a glimpse of this highly anticipated venture… plus one actual live coq. Conversations and cocktails flowed and enthusiasm was high. I then followed up a few nights later to get a better feel for the full offering.

While classics can be made on command, the regular menu features a dozen drinks that riff of classics as well as show off Tony’s cocktail savvy. Some ingredients are created off site in his London based lab but a fair few focus on French additions from the common (cognac) to the forgotten (liqueur d’ambrette.) In talking to the team members, I hear a real enthusiasm for the local cocktail culture and its possibilities. Rather than recreating Tony’s popular London bars here, they’re working in conjunction with local trends, tastes and products to come up with something uniquely Parisian. And while they could command higher prices given their rep, they keep it at a cool 11 Euros per drink.

As for Tony’s famous Dry Martini made with Beefeater gin, Martini Dry and a distillation of tannins and polyphenols for a drier mouth feel, I can attest that the quality here is just as good as the ones I’ve sampled at his London location. The house French 75 incorporates grapefruit infused gin and a dash of absinthe that play nicely in this classic. Other inviting options include the nicely balanced Fig Leaf Collins with its gin, lemon juice and fig leaf syrup. And while my current crazy schedule means I haven’t worked my way through the entire menu yet, I’m planning on making more headway this weekend.

Beyond the bar, the group is also introducing more interesting events like Tony’s recent cocktail and food pairing with dining darling, le Dauphin. The menu included the same cocktail served in two different glasses to highlight the changes their shape make to the nuances of flavor…because those are the kinds of discoveries Tony likes to share.

With its brash attitude, cool rock soundtrack and unique style, Le Coq is not your typical cocktail lounge. Some of the city’s speakeasy-style habitués may be surprised by this abrupt about face on the bar scene, but I take it as a sign that Paris has reached a point where its unafraid to assert some personality. Le Coq shows us that the big boys have come out to play in Paris. And they seem to be setting out not just to make their own mark on the capital’s cocktail scene but to make a French mark on cocktail culture.

Alternative Cocktail Adventures: Little Red Door

Posted on December 16, 2012 by forest

Little Red Door
60 Rue Charlot
75003 Paris

It’s been a busy few months. Between a few weeks of holiday and other fun stuff like openings, social events, cocktail competitions and interesting interviews the blog writing had to take backseat for a few weeks. But, I’m back and ready to spill on some of the city’s new spots, like Little Red Door, where I met up with Kasia recently for some taste testing.

Just past the friendly doorman, you’ll find a whimsically miniature red door. While most guests will slip into this seductive space via the normal sized door to the left, apparently a select few regulars will be given the keys to this mini-entrance. With discrete attitude, LRD sticks to the speakeasy style prevalent within Paris’ recent cocktail scene but amps it up with some stylish detail. These days, it’s not unusual to see lovely glassware or bitters decanted in simple bottles on a bar top. However, here the furniture has been handpicked and imported from London and the light fixtures specifically designed for the space. But the pieces de resistances are the plush velvet barstools, which are not so much stools as impossibly comfortable armchairs. Dim lighting, various levels and intimate groupings of chic chairs and sofas make it a sexy little space for small groups or a quiet couples night out.

With Romain, previously of the Experimental Cocktail Club, and Ben behind the bar, drinks are made with TLC. On my first visit, the menu was not yet finalized, so I started with a nicely prepared No. 3 martini. However, the other orders better exemplify the team’s skill at gently encouraging patrons to try something just a little different. Since Kasia had been considering a dark and stormy, Ben suggested an alternative with smoky whisky and ginger beer. Her hubby ordered up a cacacha based sangree, which he’d been turned onto as an alternative to a caipi on a prior night. Like their drinks, their spirits selection veers away from the mainstream and they pride themselves on ‘high-quality and specialized’ spirits.

I returned later for the opening night party and launch of first menu. At the time the choice included five drinks based on a range of high-end spirits and quality ingredients with enough variety to appeal to a range of tastes. The cocktail menu will change on a regular basis with a continued focus on creating unique cocktails. The team will also be working with an aromaticien in developing interesting profiles for their creations.

For non-cocktail drinkers, LRD’s wine places a special focus on Languedocs and their selection of artisanal beer comes from Cave a Bulles. They have plans to bring in food, which will be a nice addition. With barstools as comfortable as these, customers will need something to accompany a full evening’s worth of cocktails.

Overall, it’s a nice space, with well-made drinks going for standard Paris cocktail prices, of 12 to 13 Euros. While I like the fact that some of the city’s latest bars are dropping cocktail prices slightly, LRD is doing enough to justify these prices. And bonus: with some of my other cocktails favs like Candelaria, le Coq, l’Entrée des Artistes and Grazie within reasonable walking distance, this little corner of the city is shaping up as a great place for a cocktail crawl.

On tap Cocktail Adventures: Glass

Posted on September 27, 2012 by forest

Glass
7 rue Frochot
75009

What really makes a bar successful? To answer that, let’s look to Adam, Carina and Josh. Since opening the wildly popular Candelaria, they’ve garnered a loyal following and achieved international industry recognition. There is no question this trio and their team have the necessary cocktail know how. But to keep their barstools busy in an increasingly competitive cocktail environment, they add a little something extra: heart and soul. And, they’ve proved this by opening a second bar that combines pertinent cocktail trends with their own special sauce for something that’s decidedly different from what we’ve been seeing in the city: Glass.

When Glass opened its doors at 10pm on Wednesday, there was already a crowd of customers, friends and well-wishers lining the sidewalk to get a glimpse. Within minutes the place was packed and staff were pumping out drinks. While this was of course lots of fun, to really get a good idea of what’s happening here, I returned early evening the next day. I roped Emma into joining me after running into her at the Don Lee vodka infusion master class at La Conserverie – mainly because I like her company, but a little selfishly, too, as I knew it would provide the opportunity to taste more drinks.

Glass is going the dive bar route and have, appropriately, set up shop in the gentrifying yet still somewhat sketchy area of Pigalle (also dangerously close to my apartment.) I think a true dive bar comes to life organically over time and not necessarily with the intent of doing so. I love a good dive and on entering Glass, one might see just that. But what I see is a bar that’s retained some of the best qualities of a dive (lower prices, laid back attitude, lack of pretention) infused with some of that aforementioned heart and soul. The small space with its matte black walls is down to earth and casual. But, on closer inspection, you discover the elements that make it their own: cast iron lampshades from Japan or custom made acid-washed mirror tabletops from Barcelona. They’re still putting the finishing touches on the deco and will be bringing in a local artist to paint the floor something fun and vibrant.

The lack of pretention extends to the menu. The aim is to deliver quality drinks faster and at slightly lower prices as well as incorporating more than just cocktails. As many of the city’s cocktail spots are eschewing a selection of beer, here you’ll find a wide variety of unusual choices and a section devoted to beer and shot pairings like the Belle & Sebastian (Brewdog 5AM Saint + Monkey Shoulder.) Serious beer lovers can even take a growler of beer to go.

But, we’re here about the cocktails, aren’t we? Glass is the first bar in Paris to bring in trends that have been brewing elsewhere for awhile, like frozen drinks machines that slosh out something above and beyond a mediocre margarita, two cocktails on tap, and a premixed G&T by the bottle. There are an additional four choices in the shaken and stirred category and plans to bring in a reserve menu as they do in Candelaria.
I had already tried and enjoyed a Martinez on tap opening night, so I bored them with my usual request this visit. The spirits selection is small but conscientious. I was torn between taking Beefeater or Monkey 47 for my martini – two very different gins & moods (apparently I was all over the board last night.) When I mentioned this to Sam at the bar, she immediately suggested a dry Monkey 47 with a grapefruit zest. This is why I like these guys: they know and like their products. Whether or not it’s to your liking may vary, but she gave me a good suggestion and I took it and liked it. I’ll skip the part about the chilled glasses, proper preparation and fresh ingredients because I think we’ve come to expect that with this crew.

Between Emma and I, we sampled a good selection of the rest of the menu, including:

Frozen Pisco Punch: I dig that they’re bringing in frozen machine drinks and delivering something more than the usuals. They do a nice job with this one. I don’t personally drink a lot of frozen cocktails because they give me ice cream headaches and they’re usually poorly made. (Although that’s not the case here, so perhaps I could just try drinking more slowly)

Remember the Maine: In addition to the Martinez, this is their other tap option. I really like it, although the punt e mes gives it a bitter kick that might surprise the uninitiated.

Bottled Gin and Tonic: I’m not a huge tonic drinker and am kind of fussy about it when I do go there. But Sam is making tonic in-house and doing a fab job of it. And, they’re using Citadelle, which I think is a perfect choice for a G&T (as opposed to a martini for which I will generally choose something else.) Of note, the gin comes in the bottle with a straw, which means no ice.

As of Saturday, they’ll be bringing in simple food: organic 100% beef hotdogs and home made pickles. I was tickled to find that the buns and pickles are coming from the kick-ass culinary team of Emperor Norton (as well as a garnish or two). Additionally, we’re going to see a fun new bar opening soon just across the street.

So, keep your eye on this space; with the lively Kremlin and Rock’n’Roll Circus just steps away, Pigalle is becoming a perfect metro stop for a rollicking good time bar crawl. I always hammer home about good cocktails, but past posts have shown my interest in the growing popularity of Pigalle, a fun dive, and the return to a goodtime in cocktails. Glass embodies all of those things. I’ll admit, it’s not a bar for everyone. But, that’s what makes it great: it’s a bar with personality and if you like that kind of thing, like me, you’ll love it. Glass will be a hit for a long time to come because they’ve made a hard-earned reputation for themselves. But if you go beyond the buzz and look for that heart and soul, you’ll really understand what makes this place special.

ECC Alum Cocktail Adventures: Sherry Butt

Posted on September 24, 2012 by forest

Sherry Butt
20 rue Beautreillis
75004 Paris

2005, NYC: Audrey Saunders opens the Pegu Club at a time when gin has fallen out of favor and makes a significant impact on the classic cocktail revival, playing a role in revitalizing an unfashionable spirit and providing a playground for many a good barman who subsequently move on to establish some of the world’s best cocktail spots. (Jim Meehan, PDT; Toby Maloney, Violet Hour.)

2012: As Paris catches up with its contemporaries on a cocktail level, we’re seeing a similar spawn and spread from a central establishment here. The ECC group has employed some topnotch talent, who have since left the nest to create their own successful cocktail destinations such as Candelaria and l’Entrée des Artists, both of which are opening highly anticipated second bars soon. And, Sherry Butt, the latest creation from ECC protégés Cathleen and Amaury (previously of Curio and Px), shows us a new round of Paris bar staff breaking out on their own.

I stopped into Sherry Butt with Thibaut, a few days after their recent opening, to see what these kids were up to. The space is good. Stylishly comfortable sofas allow for plenty of seating around distressed coffee tables. High ceilings, hard wood floors and stone walls provide character without being too elaborate, and multiple mirrors open the space up. The bar itself is pleasingly simple with a focus on the large glass refrigerator – nice touch. They’ve managed to maintain a lounge feel but achieved a brighter, lighter and fresher ambience thanks to the window ceiling. It’s also a space that’s conducive to the occasional DJ, which they’ll be bringing in.

The front page of the menu features whisky flights, with four suggested selections plus an option to create your own. For cocktails, you’ve got eleven creations at 12 to 13 Euros each based on a good range of spirits (with brands specified on the menu) and featuring a lot of syrups made on site, including a Champagne one (which I found interesting.) I started with my usual and got a very nice Sipsmith/Dolin stirred martini with a twist and a good proportion of vermouth to gin. Gin selection includes Old Raj, Hayman’s, Junipero, Hendrick’s, Plymouth, Tanqueray Ten, Broker’s. Thibaut had the Hustler Negroni (gin, Campari, amaro, dry vermouth, Ferrand dry curacao, and dandelion bitters). I like a good negroni so my initial thought at reading all of those ingredients was is might be a bit fussy for my taste. But, it was good with an appetite-whetting bitter bite.

I followed up with the La Pibole (Rittenhouse, dry curacao, byrrh, and Peychauds), which was pleasant and exemplifies a continuing trend of incorporating old-school French aperitifs into cocktails. While some of these can result in unfamiliar or bitter flavors making them a harder sell, I enjoy them so I’m happy to see them continuing to crop up. (I also like the name because it sounds like “L’Happy Bowl” – a little bowl of happiness. However, I don’t believe this was the intention and it adds nothing to this review. Welcome to my inner world with its running commentary) Ice water is served alongside drinks, which the American in me much appreciates. Although having lived in France for a decade, I’m also used to bar snacks accompanying my apero and think it would be a good touch here, even if it were just pretzels.

I wasn’t surprised to find that the drinks are nice here. Given the experience and skills of the bunch behind it, I expect it. What I am a little worried about are the prices. Now don’t get me wrong: these are fair prices for cocktails. They are in line with lots of other cocktail stops in town. And, that’s what’s concerning: there are many more cocktail options in town these days and I think new places must now work even harder to differentiate themselves. Also, they are somewhat close to bar-heavy Bastille area where a (generally mediocre) cocktail can be had for a fiver.

What could make them really stand out are their plans for a limited bar menu of small plates. Given the success of places like Grazie and Candelaria with their combo of cocktails plus straightforward but really good food (pizza, tacos) and considering the popularity of some of the city’s newer wine bars featuring fabulous small plates (Frenchie, Verjus), I think Sherry Butt would do well to move in this direction. I don’t think there’s really a cocktail bar at the moment seriously doing a successful hybrid of good tapas and cocktails. I also think that would bring in an earlier evening crowd.

So if you find yourself near Bastille, do yourself a favor and skip the crap cocktails at cut-rate prices and give Sherry Butt a try. They are off to a promising start and, if they focus on reading their early customer base and adapt and react as necessary, they could assert quite a personality. They grow up so fast, don’t they?

Discrete Cocktail Adventures: Baudelaire Bar at Le Burgundy

Posted on August 3, 2012 by forest

Le Baudelaire at Le Burgundy Hotel
6/8, rue Duphot
75001 Paris
Tél. 01 42 60 34 12

As an ex-pat in Paris, it’s easy to drop into Anglophone life. But I didn’t move here to live in an artificial bubble of Americana. I like speaking the language and hanging out with Frenchie friends. But, my writing skills en français are another matter and 52 Martinis comes to you only in English. So, when Alambic approached me about translating my posts into French for their online magazine, my reaction was: Right on! I’m not sure how they will deal with some of my more creative words or flippant phrases, but it’s cool 52 will be coming at you in French. And to seal the deal, their main man, Sébastien Foulard, and I met to sign the contract over a drink at le Baudelaire bar of l’Hotel Burgundy.

Le Burgundy, a discretely under-the-radar five star hotel, is home to the modern and comfortable Baudelaire Bar – and also the location where the poet’s affects were auctioned off after his death. As part of the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, the bar takes up two rooms with heavy curtains, sophisticated furnishings and a red and gold ceiling fresco inspired by Baudelaire’s “Fleurs du Mal”, which pops against the dramatic blue walls.

While, le Burgundy bills itself as a cognac bar with at least 60 references on hand, cocktail-seekers should find some sipping alternatives off the mixed drinks menu that range from 19 to 21 Euros. I passed over the Skyy Martini section of seven, paused a little longer over the six Champagne cocktails, toyed with the Signatures and eventually went for something in the Old’s Cool. This selection of classics includes a Vieux Carré, Brandy Crusta, Champs Elysées and the happy addition of a lesser-referenced oldie, the Japanese.

My Brandy Crusta was nicely presented in a sugar rimmed wine glass and conformed to a classic recipe, and you can’t go wrong with that. Sébastien went for the Japanese, which varied slightly from the original Jerry Thomas’ guide recipe with the addition of lemon juice and – I suspect – a slight reduction in the amount of Angostura bitters (which seems to be the general adaptation for this drink). This made for a well-balanced drink and probably also conforms better to current palates.

In an unusual move, I had skipped my usual martini order because head barman, Christopher, had previously worked at the Royal Monceau and my thought was I was already familiar with his solid skills so wouldn’t be surprised by a martini he made elsewhere. However, Sebastian convinced me otherwise, and I reverted to a martini for my second order, which was a good call. Christopher suggested a rather classic recipe of half and half proportions with a few dashes of orange bitters or a martini to my specification. I took a wet (but not 50/50) Tanqueray martini, with orange bitters and a twist. It arrived, icy cold, on a slate tray with the elegant touch of a side of vermouth wash and extra zest. Of course, I also had a taste of Sebastian’s julep, which went down easily.

All ingredients are fresh and Christopher has the background and skills to pull off the cocktails as well as provide the excellent service. He tells us they are looking at running some Prohibition themed evenings. While I always like the idea of reaching ever further with cocktail programs, I would love to see themed evenings that branch out into something beyond an already established aspect of cocktail culture. However, I believe this is generally indicative of the workings a hotel bar, in which visiting guests are more likely to expect menus to reflect current trends rather than break them.

That said, sometimes nothing beats an elegant hotel bar and all the niceties that come with it. In addition to the soothing environment, refined service and stylish surroundings, the Burgundy puts out some sophisticated bar snacks and adds more personalized touches such as heavy ice balls in the water glasses (often reserved in bars just for whiskies or certain cocktails.) Another addition they’re making to the 5 star bar experience is bringing in the DJ’s. So, the crowd that previously did their lux lounging at the Ritz before its closing is making a new home here for a bit of music and mixology.

So, not only was I happy to be meeting up with Sebastian for a drink to celebrate collaboration with Alambic, I was happy to discover this intimate hotel bar with its understated elegance instead of oversaturated hype. And that, I did all in French.

Art Deco Cocktail Adventures: L’Etage at Les Jalles – CLOSED

Posted on May 8, 2012 by forest

L’Etage
14 Rue des Capucines
75002 Paris
01 42 61 66 71

I don’t really spend all of my time drinking and eating. I also spend a lot of time reading, researching, writing and talking about drinking and eating. So, naturally, I hear a lot of buzz. When a friend recently called for a restaurant recommendation that was new and cool and trendy and busy and good (in other words: buzzy), I immediately thought of the latest venture from the duo behind the exceedingly popular Volnay: les Jalles. In the last month, the blogosphere has been nicely noisy about this new eatery. However, what piqued my curiosity was not the reportedly fantastic food. It was the buzz I had been hearing about their bar, l’Etage for months prior from some notable cocktail names.

A few days after they opened, Kate and I made our way through the tasteful art deco dining room of les Jalles, up the back stairs to l’Etage to see what hid behind the hype. We found ourselves in a sophisticated and seductive space, where period appropriate paintings pop against dark walls and sexy staff stands behind the shiny bar in somberly elegant uniform.

Classy style carries through to the menu with its small but strong selection of eight drinks, including a crusta, a julep and a cobbler made with choice ingredients. The man behind the menu is bar manager, Simon, previously of la Conserverie. And, patrons can confidently go off menu considering he not only honed his skills at a great Paris cocktail spot, but has also worked the circuit abroad, including stints in both Australia and London.

My martini was not the first I’ve had from Simon, but was just as consistently good as the previous ones. When he recommended a Martinez as my follow up, I was happy to go that route and mentioned that it ranked highly among my most memorable cocktail experiences, thanks to one several years back London bar, Montgomery Place. Coincidentally, turns out that’s also the bar he worked in London, so he stirred up a Martinez that was reminiscent of the one I recalled so fondly. I, also, of course enjoyed a sip Kate’s Bwa-Lele (two types of rum, velvet falernum, lime and tiki bitters) and was particularly impressed with the presentation of her Calvados Crusta, which came in a glass entirely coated with fine sugar.

I stopped in for another visit last night and Simon started me off with a personalized concoction of gin, Suze, celery bitters, Noilly Pratt and fresh coriander. This wouldn’t be a drink for everyone, but it was just right for me: something strong, dry and bitter with a fresh & herby nose thanks to the coriander. I followed with a Sazerac, for which they normally use Rittenhouse Rye, but in this case, Simon broke out a bottle of Michter’s US1 Straight Rye that he had just brought back from New York. I found the Michter’s a bit sweeter and less complex than many ryes, which made for an easily sippable Sazerac that will please a larger range of palettes. Word is that the menu will be updated soon, but the Bwa-Lele and Crusta will likely remain.

An absinthe fountain on the bar gets occasional use. On a side note, I think it would be great to see more bars doing absinthe drips. While it’s becoming more common to see fountains in bars and many consider it a bit passé in the constant quest for something new and unusual in the cocktail world, I don’t believe it’s been fully explored and pushed beyond its novelty aspect. In a city whose population is familiar with Pernod and which is historically no stranger to the green fairy, more bars could cultivate a taste for it in their customer base.

Drink prices are slightly above average at 16 Euros each, but those wanting the atmosphere with something a little less spendy can enjoy an aperitif at a reasonable 5 to 9 Euros.

L’Etage will attract a crowd of sophisticated urbanites looking to while away a few hours over a well made drink and listening to smoky jazz numbers from the current musical attraction and French chanteuse, Caroline Nin.

Despite high quality quaffs, excellent bar staff and an elegant environment, the bar is still relatively undiscovered as everyone rushes to the restaurant downstairs. But, my guess is that won’t last for long once the bar buzz gets going. So, get there before everyone else does.

Four Years Later Cocktail Adventures: Beef Club Ballroom

Posted on March 15, 2012 by forest

Beef Club Ballroom
58, rue Jean Jacques Rousseau
Paris 75001

52 Martinis began four years ago, a fortuitous time. While my interest in cocktails goes back further, it was then that I found France’s wine culture alone wasn’t enough for me. I wanted the option to occasionally indulge my cocktail cravings formed in the US and fed by frequent travel. Around the same time, a French trio was looking to indulge as well and had recently opened the Experimental Cocktail Club, kick starting Paris’ cocktail resurgence and providing the venue for my first Wednesday Cocktail Adventure. Since then, I’ve got over a hundred bar reviews under my belt, and the trio has just opened their fifth Paris location: the Beef Club.

The day after their opening, Kim and I made our way down the long, dark spiral staircase that leads to the below ground bar to see if it maintains their cocktail momentum. My first impression is that this seems a more ambitious venture than their Paris priors with its soon to open restaurant and notable involvement of butcher Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec and Tim Wilson of London’s Hawksmore.

My next impression is that the cocktail menu of 8 choices is small but solid. This family of bars has always showcased quality ingredients and superior drinks inline with the latest of cocktail trends. And while I have the impression that this establishment is geared slightly more to the club crowd than the cocktail loungers, they haven’t pandered with the menu.

As with their other bars, there are a couple of more easy-going options for the casual consumer that may end up being the most often ordered off the menu. My money’s on their cardamom infused Fair Vodka based Pondichery Mule – unless the clientele embraces the absinthe aspect of the Marilou along with its sloe gin and champagne.

But, also like their other bars, they take it further. They confidently incorporate interesting ingredients into their short but sweet menu without shying away from those that might require a more acquired taste. I like seeing a French gentian based beverage brought into play with the Salers Smash, which is balanced in a way that lets the bitterness surprise without taking over. The egg white in the Concombre fumant gives this tequila based cocktail a consistency that compliments its smoky side but also provides a nice playground for the piment. And, prices remain in a range of 12 – 14 Euros.

This team is diligently sticking with the formula that’s made their successful reputation: quality ingredients, knowledgeable staff and a stylish décor in which to linger over lovely creations. Considering the place was packed within minutes of opening its doors the night we arrived, I’d say it’s a formula that’s working for them.

Note: Kim also posted more pics and thoughts from the evening that you can read on her post at I Heart Paris.

52 Martinis

It's a concept

Category Archives: *superior cocktails