Convivial Cocktail Adventures: l’Eclair

Posted on April 9, 2013 by forest

photo credit: l’Eclair FB page

l’Eclair
32 rue Cler
75007 Paris

Remember when I mentioned that 52 Martinis was going to be available soon in French over at Alambic? It took a bit of time to find someone who was up to translating “forest-speak” into French speak. And when they did, Sebastian and I got together at l’Eclair for (what else?) a cocktail and to meet my 52 Martinis French counterpart, Sophie.

Late last year, l’Eclair popped up on the cute cobblestone street, rue Cler, which is better known for its markets than mixology. On first glance, it appears to be just another typical Paris cafe, with a busy terrace, strategically distressed decor and a lively crowd of young frenchies chatting over cheap glasses of wine. But, there’s more to this spot than initially meets the eye.

Firstly, the gin selection hints at something a bit more ambitious than the usual with Beefeater, Beefeater 24, Plymouth, Plymouth Navy and Hendricks. While that might not be enough to endlessly entertain serious ginhounds, it’s surely a step beyond the typical terrace offerings.

The menu, as well, offers something a bit more than you might expect with a dozen cocktails for a tenner of enough variety to please a range of patrons from the easily accessible Basil Power (apple aromatized vodka, fresh basil, strawberry puree & syrup) to something that takes a bit more of an acquired taste like the house negroni. Additionally they feature four Havana rum based tiki drinks and three “Decadence Martinis” such as the Porn Star Martini and its accompanying shooter of champagne.

While I would have liked a choice of garnish and possibly a colder glass, my Beefeater martini with olives was well-made and a nice surprise in such unassuming circumstances – and further proof that a better kind of cocktail continues to infiltrate more mainstream bar culture. Sebastian’s 666 (Jim Beam Devil’s Cut, Saint Germain, honey citrus) and Sophie’s tiki drink were nicely presented and well enough made. The tiki felt light in alcohol, but these kinds of drinks can tend to be sneaky in this way.

They feature a fun selection of food like big burgers alongside crispy fries wrapped in newspaper print or croque monsieur’s made with bread from organic bakery, Moisan. We opted for a platter Viande de Grisons from Davoli as we moved onto our next round, which showcased where the interest really lies….

L’Eclair offers four different shareable cocktails in 1 litre batches, which of course we had to try. Our Kentucky Lemonade Pitcher (Maker’s Mark, fresh mint, syrup, lemon and ginger ale) arrived in a heavy metal Maker’s Mark branded pitcher with matching julep tins packed with plenty of crushed ice and fresh mint. The drink could have easily served a table of six, making it a good deal at 30 Euros. Other options include the Pernod Green Beast, served in a special Pernod cage or the more pedestrian Sangria.

Overall, the selection at l’Eclair is above average. While cocktillians might not find any surprises on the menu, customers will find that they are serving some atypically fun fair for a fairly typical café. If you’re looking to share some sips and nibbles with good company as we were, it’s a very handy address to have.

And since our visit a few months ago, Sophie has translated a ton of my posts and now moved on to continue her studies. So, a big thanks to her for all her hard work – she’ll be a tough translation act to follow!

Polynesian Cocktail Adventures: Dirty Dick

Posted on March 20, 2013 by forest

Dirty Dick
10 Rue Frochot
75009 Paris

Change is good. And, I’ve seen some especially good change when it comes to the Pigalle in the last few years. Paris’ red-light district has gone from cocktail dead zone to cocktail destination thanks to the arrival of bars like Glass, Kremlin and Rock’n'Roll Circus. And the latest place to bring a bit of kicky change to the area? The naughtily named Dirty Dick, which is giving Pigalle some Polynesian personality with its tiki themed bar and drinks. I can get down with a bit of South Seas style sipping, so I stopped in with one of my fav drinking partners to check things out.

With several busy bars already under their belts, the team behind the Dirty Dick went all out with their latest venture. While the typical touches like rattan furniture, palm tree wall paper, and tiki masks, give it the appropriate island feel, they’ve added some extras that knock the deco up a notch. Two tall totem poles – specially carved for the space and weighing a hefty 350 kilos each – frame a lush wall of tropical plants. American artist, David “Gonzo” Gonzalez created another kind of lush wall with his mural of a flirty bikini bottom-clad beach beauty. A sweet soundtrack of tropical bird tweets loops in the loos. And, the night we were there, the place was already packed with neighborhood locals enjoying the festive vibe and fun drinks.

The friendly team behind the bar – including Scotty (previously of the UFO) and Christina (of the Kremlin) – know how to do a good time as well as a good drink. Before looking at the menu, I sheepishly ordered a dry martini. Being in a tiki joint, I “should” go for one of the rum creations… but, you know, the martini thing, it’s what I do. But guess what? There’s already one on the menu with their special grapefruit spin. Class. My Edinburgh martini was served with a twist and a shot of extra vermouth on the side at 10 Euros. Nice.

After that, I was ready to move onto the rum-based Cutback Conquest, which offers the satisfying balance of a well-made sour made more mature and interesting thanks to the Guinness reduction’s bitter beer bite, spiking through the otherwise easy-going cocktail for a pleasant surprise. The rest of the menu also reflects this element of the unexpected or a juxtaposition of sorts: An elegant un-refinedness, if you will (as opposed to an unrefined elegance). This classy kitsch works perfectly for a tiki bar. With its ass-kicking punches poured into over the top ceramic mugs, tiki, by nature is not a subtle cocktail culture. But a truly good tiki drink can celebrate both its fun factor as well as showcase something more interesting and complex – and that’s where Dirty Dick is going.

The menu features 17 cocktails with a good mix of classics and house creations, mainly based (of course) on rum, but with other options including vodka, tequila, whiskey, etc. Lighthearted descriptions don’t divulge everything, but instead evoke a feeling or idea. Prices range from 6 to 14 Euros, based roughly on the amount of liquor in your libation; while the Ba-Tiki-Da at 6 Euros has about 5 centiliters of booze, the Slurricane at 14 Euros has close to 12 (watch out!).

Additionally, they offer up three convivial punch bowls for sharing that sound both fun and deadly like the Amazombie, based on the original Zombie, which promises to turn the “living into dead,” or the She Sells Sea Shells sold in a conch shell. And it just gets better with a selection of over 52 different rums on the shelf. Also of note, they are open 7/7 and have a well-ventilated smoking room in the back.

Dirty Dick shows that this group of bars and its associated staff have the know-how to put together a worthy watering hole and have managed to make a classy tiki joint without losing personality or credibility. Two thumbs up. The only problem is that now that another new great drinking destination has opened up in the area, I’ve just moved to a new neighborhood. So, I just keep reminding myself that “Change is good, right?” … and fortunately, my new place is on a direct metro line to Dirty Dick.

Shellfish Cocktail Adventures: the Mary Celeste

Posted on March 7, 2013 by forest

Mary Celeste
1 rue Commines
75003 Paris

I’ve been talking a lot lately about Paris turning a new cocktail page and coming out ahead of trends rather than bowing to them. And once again, the group behind the Candelaria provides a very fine example of just that with their third venture, a restaurant and bar, which showcases their ability to come up with fresh fare.

While I love a low-light lounge or a dark divey bar, the open, airy and light space that is the Mary Celeste brightens the bar scene with something new. Large windows let in plenty of light to the main floor, which features a friendly island bar. A downstairs area, where the tiny kitchen is located, handles the runoff from the main floor.

Owners, Josh, Adam & Carina, have put together a topnotch international team, including notable barman Carlos Madriz (previously of l’Hotel) and Chef Haan Palcu-Chang (previously of Le Verre Volé as well as Europe’s only Michelin-starred Thai restaurant.) Palcu-Chang’s creative small plates -including offerings like homemade Kimchee which demonstrate his passion for Asian cuisine – are available from 7pm onwards. But, from 5pm to 7pm, it’s “Oyster Happy Hour” with fresh terroir-focused oysters at a buck a bivalve! The oysters, served alongside tasty, crisp flat bread and Palcu-Chang’s mignonette, which incorporates coriander and a bit of heat, were delicious enough to convince me to indulge in them two nights in a row. I’m digging both the oyster concept and the fact that they open earlier than most bars. But, we’re here to talk cocktails…

My first experience was an opening night event, and the place was packed with friends and fans of the group enjoying free Brooklyn pours, beer cocktails and oysters at happy hour prices. My Oliver’s Twist exemplifies Carlos’ innate talent for creating well balanced cocktails with the Brooklyn lager, Rabarbaro, lemon and Tabasco bringing a successful combination of sweet, bitter, sour and heat that stands up to the oysters and their accompanying mignonette. As I sipped and slurped, the sounds of the Steve Miller band on vinyl filled the air thanks to the vintage Lenco turntable. Sweet!

I returned the following night for Oyster Happy Hour to see how some of their cocktails stacked up to the tasty sea creatures. Carlos suggested a Dear Apollonia (grappa, Manzanilla sherry & crème de peche) as something that would please a martini-loving palette. Not only does that describe my palette, but a martini can be an ideal pairing with oysters. I know that just the mention of grappa can make the un-initiated tremble. However, the quality of the spirit and the addition of the crème de peche make for a lighter more approachable drink that works for newbies as well as more experienced cocktail drinkers. Plus, considering the mignonette, it’s a better pairing with these oysters than a straightforward martini.

I progressed to a Nord Sud, which was eliciting praise from a fellow drinker and shows off a nice balance of apple brandy, sherry fino, homemade grenadine and citrus. I finished with the Dottore Cipriano, made with herby vermouth, mescal and enough amero to make it interesting without overpowering. And the smokey touch of the mescal made it a perfect and somehow comforting finish to this trio.

While plenty of people will go for the Single Ladies (Absolut, muscadet syrup and lemon), the menu of 10 or so cocktails at 12 Euros proves a nice vehicle for introducing customers to less common ingredients like ameros, vermouths and sherries. Carlos explained that they are going for more aperitif-style cocktails that veer more towards something delicate than in-your-face. They also feature beers from Brooklyn Brewery and a selection of natural wines. And I hear that Simon will be heading over to cover on Carlos’ days off, which means the Mary Celeste packs serious talent behind the stick seven nights a week.

I suspect that the combination of the more lighthearted approach to the decor and drinks and the trust-inspiring integrity of this group when it comes to scrutinizing the quality of ingredients, means this venture will appeal to a wider audience without compromising the quality that hardcore foodies and cocktillians demand. The Mary Celeste is a breath of fresh air, well worth a detour and I look forward to many more Happy Hours at the bar.

20′s Boudoir Cocktail Adventures: Très Honoré Bar

Posted on February 6, 2013 by forest

Très Honoré Bar
35 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré
Paris 75001

Two of my favorite things: catching up with good friends and checking out new venues. So, when Dec and Cliodhna were back in town briefly after a few years’ stint in Abu Dhabi, I was more than happy to do both. Considering their time in a region not particularly known for bars, I was looking for a location with wow factor. I settled on the Très Honoré Bar after hearing about its 20′s boudoir glam and checking out some online pics. Yet, when we arrived, I wondered if we were in the right place. Outside is a pretty basic terrace and inside is a hyper-designed restaurant, which feels somewhat dated. We caught up over so so steaks and wine and I still wondered what the fuss was all about.

That was until after dinner when made our way to the downstairs bar, which was much more in line with my expectations. While this large lounge can easily hold a hundred, it still offers an air of intimacy with nooks and alcoves packed with comfortable arm chairs, candlelit coffee tables and heavy drapes. The ladies’ offers up two loos in the same room, so you can gossip with the girls literally nonstop. Dim lighting and an eclectic assortment of choice pieces like the grand piano, vintage prints and framed insects give it a bit of elegance with attitude. Sexy wait staff with just a pinch of the expected attitude themselves make the rounds with menus.

Twelve cocktails are divided between classics (like the bijou or pisco sour) and house creations at 12 to 15 Euros. Cliodhna and I went off menu with a nicely done martini and old fashioned. There was a bit too much sugar in the bottom of her glass for her taste, but I don’t mind a bit of sweet grit in my old fashioned. I couldn’t place the gin and later found out it was Seagram’s, which I haven’t had for years. Although it’s owned by French company Pernod-Ricard, it doesn’t seem to show up in most of the bars I frequent here, and I associate it much more with US gin drinking habits. (Seagram’s 7 and 7, anyone?) Otherwise, nothing too unusual with the other gins on offer of Bombay Sapphire, Hendrick’s and Tanqueray. I followed up with a Très Honoré (Jack Daniels, Chambord, white peach puree, fresh mint, and lime juice.) With its very particular taste, Jack can be a touchy spirit to mix with. However, peach seems a natural pairing for it and the Jack came through nicely without being masked by too much sweetness. We tried a few more, but I must admit that note taking fell by the wayside as Cliodhna and I caught up. But, in general it seems they are making a decent drinks effort.

The night of our visit was pleasantly quiet with just a few other patrons having hushed conversations in other corners. However, its past associations (previous location for the George V group’s Barlotti as well as for last year’s Cointreau Privé pop up), the large floor space and its fashionable address, make it prime real estate for larger and busier events and evenings. And, indeed they were (are?) hosting the Trenty’s soirees and a few weeks after my first visit I returned again for a magazine launch. The night of the launch was not as enjoyable: it was hot, crowded and a twenty minute wait at a bar that wasn’t serving cocktails. But, based on my prior pleasant enough experience, I’m going to hope that was a due to the event organizers rather than the bar itself.

In short, the space is glamorous and they’re making an effort with the cocktails. It’s the type of place that has the potential to pull in everyone from the fashionably understated to the fashion victims, so probably best to time your visit accordingly. But, on my visit with Dec and Cli, I had an enjoyable night. Was it the company or the cocktails? Probably a bit of both, so I wouldn’t hesitate head back and see how things shake out here.

Alternative Cocktail Adventures: Little Red Door

Posted on December 16, 2012 by forest

Little Red Door
60 Rue Charlot
75003 Paris

It’s been a busy few months. Between a few weeks of holiday and other fun stuff like openings, social events, cocktail competitions and interesting interviews the blog writing had to take backseat for a few weeks. But, I’m back and ready to spill on some of the city’s new spots, like Little Red Door, where I met up with Kasia recently for some taste testing.

Just past the friendly doorman, you’ll find a whimsically miniature red door. While most guests will slip into this seductive space via the normal sized door to the left, apparently a select few regulars will be given the keys to this mini-entrance. With discrete attitude, LRD sticks to the speakeasy style prevalent within Paris’ recent cocktail scene but amps it up with some stylish detail. These days, it’s not unusual to see lovely glassware or bitters decanted in simple bottles on a bar top. However, here the furniture has been handpicked and imported from London and the light fixtures specifically designed for the space. But the pieces de resistances are the plush velvet barstools, which are not so much stools as impossibly comfortable armchairs. Dim lighting, various levels and intimate groupings of chic chairs and sofas make it a sexy little space for small groups or a quiet couples night out.

With Romain, previously of the Experimental Cocktail Club, and Ben behind the bar, drinks are made with TLC. On my first visit, the menu was not yet finalized, so I started with a nicely prepared No. 3 martini. However, the other orders better exemplify the team’s skill at gently encouraging patrons to try something just a little different. Since Kasia had been considering a dark and stormy, Ben suggested an alternative with smoky whisky and ginger beer. Her hubby ordered up a cacacha based sangree, which he’d been turned onto as an alternative to a caipi on a prior night. Like their drinks, their spirits selection veers away from the mainstream and they pride themselves on ‘high-quality and specialized’ spirits.

I returned later for the opening night party and launch of first menu. At the time the choice included five drinks based on a range of high-end spirits and quality ingredients with enough variety to appeal to a range of tastes. The cocktail menu will change on a regular basis with a continued focus on creating unique cocktails. The team will also be working with an aromaticien in developing interesting profiles for their creations.

For non-cocktail drinkers, LRD’s wine places a special focus on Languedocs and their selection of artisanal beer comes from Cave a Bulles. They have plans to bring in food, which will be a nice addition. With barstools as comfortable as these, customers will need something to accompany a full evening’s worth of cocktails.

Overall, it’s a nice space, with well-made drinks going for standard Paris cocktail prices, of 12 to 13 Euros. While I like the fact that some of the city’s latest bars are dropping cocktail prices slightly, LRD is doing enough to justify these prices. And bonus: with some of my other cocktails favs like Candelaria, le Coq, l’Entrée des Artistes and Grazie within reasonable walking distance, this little corner of the city is shaping up as a great place for a cocktail crawl.

Chalet Cocktail Advantures: Park Hyatt Christmas Terrace

Posted on December 14, 2012 by forest

Park Hyatt
5 Rue de la Paix
75002 Paris

I’m all about the holiday spirit this year. I’ve been going to Christmas markets, gazing at the lights and wrapping pressies with glee. So the Park Hyatt’s temporary terrace chalet seemed like the perfect spot for a seasonal sip.

From now until 5 January, this swank hotel has converted its lovely terrace into winter-wonderland complete with Christmas trees, a bit of faux snow and a mini-chalet. The Park Hyatt has been known for pricey nice cocktails and the current menu is no exception. In addition to ten or so house cocktails, they’re featuring 7 seasonal cocktails from 24 to 26 Euros.

While I enjoyed a Ms Ho (pisco, sloeberry gin, orange juice, sauvignon syrup and ginger ale), it lacks a bit of strength and nuance that I look for so it might be a better choice for a better choice for those seeking something sweet and/or fruity. However, I loved Jane’s Smash in Paris with Applejack and rhubarb bitters, served as a julep. When drinking outdoors on cool winter nights, it may seem counterintuitive to order a cocktail so packed with crushed ice that the tin cup holding it is developing a frost, but the strength of the drink make it a perfect belly warmer.

Although they have installed heaters to keep customers cozy on chilly nights, it can still get cold enough to necessitate bundling up a bit. On the evening of our visit they were installing more heaters, which may change that.

The small chalet serves as a shopping space that can hold just a few people at a time (and run by an external vendor.) It’s a cute idea, but I am not loving the products in the shop. It could use the booste of either very unique products or some kind of theme instead of a random collection not very original candles, stuffed animals, and sparkly make-up bags.

Overall, the Park Hyatt is definitely a spot where you pay to partake. But if, like me, you want an extra hit of holiday cheer this year, their terrace is a good place to get it.

Luxury Den Cocktail Advantures: Bar du Bristol

Posted on October 12, 2012 by forest

Bar du Bristol
112 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré
75008 Paris

High end hotel bars are like designer sunglasses. They give those who can’t splash out on a night at the Ritz or a Chanel suit a taste of the brand at a more palatable price. Even so, a cocktail in a swank Parisian hotel can still command a hefty 25+ Euros. But, in some spots this price tag is more justifiable than others.

Having thoroughly enjoyed a lavish meal at the Bristol years ago, I had been meaning to get back to the bar to see how their cocktails rate alongside other luxury hotels. Then, earlier this year, Sebastian and I met for a drink in their “Ephemeral Bar” for Fashion Week. At the time, I was non-plussed by both their temporary “Harper’s BAZAAR bar” as well as the cocktails. Some framed magazine covers hung on the walls and a screen looped catwalk footage. Otherwise, this appeared to be the usual Bristol Bar, with (seemingly) little effort made to bring anything more ephemeral to the space or concept. I don’t recall my cocktail, other than it came from the menu specially created for this event (or rather “marketing move”), that it was mediocre and it was served on the rocks although it should have been up. In general, it was a bit of a bust, but I hadn’t taken notes or been particularly inspired to blog it. So the recent launch of their latest bar, following a few years of hotel refurb, seemed a good opportunity to get in and assess the current cocktail situation.

While the old bar, Jardin Français, remains, it’s the Bar du Bristol that is cornering all the current media attention. This new space gives off a luxury home den feel – a den into which someone has sunk some serious cash. A specially commissioned Thierry Bruet tapestry dominates the back wall, shelves are lined with old books, stuffed birds and other curio, and animal print furniture hangs alongside more classic arm chairs and sofas. Oak flooring, silk curtains and a fine marble fireplace further lend to the lux look. It’s comfortable without being too ostentatious and an overall lovely room. The mix of classic styles with the more daring prints works as does the decidedly feminine touch of things like delicate chandeliers set off against a boy’s club vibe. However, the large modern screen projections behind the bar offer a somewhat jarring juxtaposition for my taste.

While I understand that Maxime (formerly of George V) is heading up the bar here, he wasn’t in house. However, Roman (formerly of the Ritz Hemingway) was one of the two barmen on duty. After searching – in vain – for a bag hook underneath the bar, I installed myself at said bar and was immediately offered a beautiful tiny “welcome” glass of gin, orange juice and peach. This is the kind of touch that can make a five star shine. I’ve seen this move in both London and Seattle bars, but this is the first time I’ve seen it here. A nice selection of seasoned nuts completes the welcome. The menu features 8 Signature Cocktails at 26 Euros, plus one champagne and white wine (with tequila!) cocktail. The menu also informs patrons that they can ask for a classic from the friendly barmen, so I went for the usual.

While I didn’t see my Beefeater 24 martini being prepared, it appeared in front of me in a frosty glass and the barman expressed the lemon oils and applied the twist in a suitably (but not over the top) showy fashion. However, I suspected just from looking at it that this martini had neither been stirred nor shaken, but poured directly from freezer bottles. My suspicion was confirmed upon sipping. Yes, there are high end hotels that serve martinis this way. And, no, I don’t think they should. I firmly believe that this method of prep may be better suited to serving seasoned old men and/or alkies. A martini – like nearly any cocktail – needs some dilution to avoid simply be a cold shot of booze. Zhao joined me and ordered an espresso martini, which tasted a bit flat to both her and me – but I don’t care for coffee, so you can take my opinion on that with a grain of salt.

We moved from the bar to a cozy corner table to finish our drinks and decide on a second round. While service was spot on at the bar, it slowed a bit here. I asked one of the wait staff to see the menu again, and waited for a quarter of an hour while she did other things, including plumping pillows and chatting with staff. While this is a rather small and petty complaint, it’s less so at these prices – at which it can be frustrating when it seems like a basic request goes ignored. One of the barmen eventually approached the table and immediately brought one when I asked again.

I followed up with a Fly Me to the Moon (pear eau de vie, cognac, Benedictine, lemon juice and simple syrup.) Considering the ingredients, I expected it to pack more of a punch, but it was rather sweet. The eau de vie is obvious as is a note of honey (presumably from the Benedictine), but I’d personally tone down the simple syrup to make it something more sophisticated rather than just an easy sipper. Zhao had a Jasmine Side Car. I like side cars and I like a floral touch to cocktails, so this is something I’d go for. But, personally, I might try bringing in the jasmine with something other than tea that tends to water it down too much for my taste. That said, it’s also nice to have a lighter cocktail on the menu for those who want something with less straight spirit in it, so I’m not going to fault them for this. However, both drinks had noticeable ice chunks in them – which may have also added to the watering down of the Jasmine Side Car. Other options on the menu are house creations, some of which riff on classics like the Bristol old Fashioned No. 1 with maple syrup and roasted coffee beans or Provençal Daiquiri with lavender bitters (which sounds rather nice.)

Edgar, the Responsable du Bar, came over to our table to follow up and see if we were enjoying our drinks, which is another example of the kind of extras these types of establishments offer that make them worth the money. He told us about the Thursday, Friday and Saturday night DJ’s that amp up the ambience on weekends.

There are certainly some aspects of the Bristol’s new bar that really sparkle. However – and it pains me to say this as I respect some of the talent employed in the project – I think there are some areas that could use some polish to really pull off these prices with aplomb.

Light-hearted Cocktail Adventures: Playtime Cocktails

Posted on October 5, 2012 by forest

Playtime Cocktails
34 rue de Buci
75006 Paris

Every day at 5pm, a Google Alert arrives in my inbox with links to French sites, news and blogs talking cocktails. Most of it isn’t very interesting, every once in a while there’s a worthy find and sometimes it slams me over the head with multiple links over several days all leading back to the same place. As was the case with Playtime Cocktails, which seems to be getting a lot of online play. So after a few weeks of receiving continuous alerts to it, the insistent interwebs convinced me to try it.

The recently revamped Artus boutique hotel is courting the cocktail crowd with its newly opened bar, Playtime. This bright and tiny space was designed under the inspiration of film and the fifties, resulting in a playfully retro feel. Electric blue walls serve as a backdrop for bright green furniture and vintage-type posters. The bar has a prominent separate entrance from the hotel, which seems a good move because with less than 30 rooms, they will likely want to pull in some foot traffic rather than relying solely on guests for business. The night we were there, the lights were cranked up, making it a good spot for our group of four friends – but maybe not the place to go for a romantic rendezvous.

The menu of 16 cocktails at 14 Euros each is divided by suits in a deck of cards. Spades offer up strong and flavorful choices like the Rittenhouse 100 based Brooklyn 29; Clubs go for something more floral and herbal with drinks like the vodka based Pretty in Green, which incorporates basil and elderflower syrup; Diamonds provide a bit more acidity with the likes of the Tommy’s Spicy Margarita; and Hearts have a sweeter and lighter touch incorporating more vodka choices and using a lot of fruit juice and syrups. The menu makes a good go of offering something for all tastes, but if you really can’t find something you want, the “Joker” option allows the barman to make you something according to your tastes.

The barman, Emeric, has done time in some high end Paris and London hotels, so he should be able to come up with something to please most patrons. His solid background and experience is also evident in his friendly and attentive service. I started with the “joker” and got a nicely made Tanqueray martini with a twist. Because we were four, we had the opportunity to taste many drinks from the menu. A few things of note: the Tommy’s Spicy Margarita was very good, but I didn’t feel there was enough heat to consider it “spicy.” The spiced sazarac seemed to be a table favorite along with the Spiced Rum OF (Gosling’s Bob’s Bitter ginger & homemade 5 spice syrup). In general the drinks are well balanced, properly prepared and incorporate some fresh or homemade ingredients. While you’ll find no real surprises, neither are there any let-downs. Plus, I’m always happy with a bit of snacking and really liked the olives and little snack crackers that come with the drinks.

As I’ve mentioned recently, it’s becoming increasingly more challenging for Paris cocktail bars to differentiate themselves. Five years ago, the basics that were harder to find here – ice, proper prep, fresh ingredients, bitters, more interesting choices – are becoming de rigor. So while the drinks here might not blow your mind, neither will they blow your budget, especially at their happy hour prices of 11 Euros. And, that’s where they hit their sweet spot. 11 Euros is a nice price in Paris for a good cocktail.

So will Playtime get as much play in real life as it seems to be online? Hard to say. I think it’s a good spot for a decent drink, and they’re making the extra effort with happy hour prices and solid service without attitude. So, I’m hoping they pull in a fun crowd of hotel guests and locals looking for something light hearted around Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

On tap Cocktail Adventures: Glass

Posted on September 27, 2012 by forest

Glass
7 rue Frochot
75009

What really makes a bar successful? To answer that, let’s look to Adam, Carina and Josh. Since opening the wildly popular Candelaria, they’ve garnered a loyal following and achieved international industry recognition. There is no question this trio and their team have the necessary cocktail know how. But to keep their barstools busy in an increasingly competitive cocktail environment, they add a little something extra: heart and soul. And, they’ve proved this by opening a second bar that combines pertinent cocktail trends with their own special sauce for something that’s decidedly different from what we’ve been seeing in the city: Glass.

When Glass opened its doors at 10pm on Wednesday, there was already a crowd of customers, friends and well-wishers lining the sidewalk to get a glimpse. Within minutes the place was packed and staff were pumping out drinks. While this was of course lots of fun, to really get a good idea of what’s happening here, I returned early evening the next day. I roped Emma into joining me after running into her at the Don Lee vodka infusion master class at La Conserverie – mainly because I like her company, but a little selfishly, too, as I knew it would provide the opportunity to taste more drinks.

Glass is going the dive bar route and have, appropriately, set up shop in the gentrifying yet still somewhat sketchy area of Pigalle (also dangerously close to my apartment.) I think a true dive bar comes to life organically over time and not necessarily with the intent of doing so. I love a good dive and on entering Glass, one might see just that. But what I see is a bar that’s retained some of the best qualities of a dive (lower prices, laid back attitude, lack of pretention) infused with some of that aforementioned heart and soul. The small space with its matte black walls is down to earth and casual. But, on closer inspection, you discover the elements that make it their own: cast iron lampshades from Japan or custom made acid-washed mirror tabletops from Barcelona. They’re still putting the finishing touches on the deco and will be bringing in a local artist to paint the floor something fun and vibrant.

The lack of pretention extends to the menu. The aim is to deliver quality drinks faster and at slightly lower prices as well as incorporating more than just cocktails. As many of the city’s cocktail spots are eschewing a selection of beer, here you’ll find a wide variety of unusual choices and a section devoted to beer and shot pairings like the Belle & Sebastian (Brewdog 5AM Saint + Monkey Shoulder.) Serious beer lovers can even take a growler of beer to go.

But, we’re here about the cocktails, aren’t we? Glass is the first bar in Paris to bring in trends that have been brewing elsewhere for awhile, like frozen drinks machines that slosh out something above and beyond a mediocre margarita, two cocktails on tap, and a premixed G&T by the bottle. There are an additional four choices in the shaken and stirred category and plans to bring in a reserve menu as they do in Candelaria.
I had already tried and enjoyed a Martinez on tap opening night, so I bored them with my usual request this visit. The spirits selection is small but conscientious. I was torn between taking Beefeater or Monkey 47 for my martini – two very different gins & moods (apparently I was all over the board last night.) When I mentioned this to Sam at the bar, she immediately suggested a dry Monkey 47 with a grapefruit zest. This is why I like these guys: they know and like their products. Whether or not it’s to your liking may vary, but she gave me a good suggestion and I took it and liked it. I’ll skip the part about the chilled glasses, proper preparation and fresh ingredients because I think we’ve come to expect that with this crew.

Between Emma and I, we sampled a good selection of the rest of the menu, including:

Frozen Pisco Punch: I dig that they’re bringing in frozen machine drinks and delivering something more than the usuals. They do a nice job with this one. I don’t personally drink a lot of frozen cocktails because they give me ice cream headaches and they’re usually poorly made. (Although that’s not the case here, so perhaps I could just try drinking more slowly)

Remember the Maine: In addition to the Martinez, this is their other tap option. I really like it, although the punt e mes gives it a bitter kick that might surprise the uninitiated.

Bottled Gin and Tonic: I’m not a huge tonic drinker and am kind of fussy about it when I do go there. But Sam is making tonic in-house and doing a fab job of it. And, they’re using Citadelle, which I think is a perfect choice for a G&T (as opposed to a martini for which I will generally choose something else.) Of note, the gin comes in the bottle with a straw, which means no ice.

As of Saturday, they’ll be bringing in simple food: organic 100% beef hotdogs and home made pickles. I was tickled to find that the buns and pickles are coming from the kick-ass culinary team of Emperor Norton (as well as a garnish or two). Additionally, we’re going to see a fun new bar opening soon just across the street.

So, keep your eye on this space; with the lively Kremlin and Rock’n’Roll Circus just steps away, Pigalle is becoming a perfect metro stop for a rollicking good time bar crawl. I always hammer home about good cocktails, but past posts have shown my interest in the growing popularity of Pigalle, a fun dive, and the return to a goodtime in cocktails. Glass embodies all of those things. I’ll admit, it’s not a bar for everyone. But, that’s what makes it great: it’s a bar with personality and if you like that kind of thing, like me, you’ll love it. Glass will be a hit for a long time to come because they’ve made a hard-earned reputation for themselves. But if you go beyond the buzz and look for that heart and soul, you’ll really understand what makes this place special.

ECC Alum Cocktail Adventures: Sherry Butt

Posted on September 24, 2012 by forest

Sherry Butt
20 rue Beautreillis
75004 Paris

2005, NYC: Audrey Saunders opens the Pegu Club at a time when gin has fallen out of favor and makes a significant impact on the classic cocktail revival, playing a role in revitalizing an unfashionable spirit and providing a playground for many a good barman who subsequently move on to establish some of the world’s best cocktail spots. (Jim Meehan, PDT; Toby Maloney, Violet Hour.)

2012: As Paris catches up with its contemporaries on a cocktail level, we’re seeing a similar spawn and spread from a central establishment here. The ECC group has employed some topnotch talent, who have since left the nest to create their own successful cocktail destinations such as Candelaria and l’Entrée des Artists, both of which are opening highly anticipated second bars soon. And, Sherry Butt, the latest creation from ECC protégés Cathleen and Amaury (previously of Curio and Px), shows us a new round of Paris bar staff breaking out on their own.

I stopped into Sherry Butt with Thibaut, a few days after their recent opening, to see what these kids were up to. The space is good. Stylishly comfortable sofas allow for plenty of seating around distressed coffee tables. High ceilings, hard wood floors and stone walls provide character without being too elaborate, and multiple mirrors open the space up. The bar itself is pleasingly simple with a focus on the large glass refrigerator – nice touch. They’ve managed to maintain a lounge feel but achieved a brighter, lighter and fresher ambience thanks to the window ceiling. It’s also a space that’s conducive to the occasional DJ, which they’ll be bringing in.

The front page of the menu features whisky flights, with four suggested selections plus an option to create your own. For cocktails, you’ve got eleven creations at 12 to 13 Euros each based on a good range of spirits (with brands specified on the menu) and featuring a lot of syrups made on site, including a Champagne one (which I found interesting.) I started with my usual and got a very nice Sipsmith/Dolin stirred martini with a twist and a good proportion of vermouth to gin. Gin selection includes Old Raj, Hayman’s, Junipero, Hendrick’s, Plymouth, Tanqueray Ten, Broker’s. Thibaut had the Hustler Negroni (gin, Campari, amaro, dry vermouth, Ferrand dry curacao, and dandelion bitters). I like a good negroni so my initial thought at reading all of those ingredients was is might be a bit fussy for my taste. But, it was good with an appetite-whetting bitter bite.

I followed up with the La Pibole (Rittenhouse, dry curacao, byrrh, and Peychauds), which was pleasant and exemplifies a continuing trend of incorporating old-school French aperitifs into cocktails. While some of these can result in unfamiliar or bitter flavors making them a harder sell, I enjoy them so I’m happy to see them continuing to crop up. (I also like the name because it sounds like “L’Happy Bowl” – a little bowl of happiness. However, I don’t believe this was the intention and it adds nothing to this review. Welcome to my inner world with its running commentary) Ice water is served alongside drinks, which the American in me much appreciates. Although having lived in France for a decade, I’m also used to bar snacks accompanying my apero and think it would be a good touch here, even if it were just pretzels.

I wasn’t surprised to find that the drinks are nice here. Given the experience and skills of the bunch behind it, I expect it. What I am a little worried about are the prices. Now don’t get me wrong: these are fair prices for cocktails. They are in line with lots of other cocktail stops in town. And, that’s what’s concerning: there are many more cocktail options in town these days and I think new places must now work even harder to differentiate themselves. Also, they are somewhat close to bar-heavy Bastille area where a (generally mediocre) cocktail can be had for a fiver.

What could make them really stand out are their plans for a limited bar menu of small plates. Given the success of places like Grazie and Candelaria with their combo of cocktails plus straightforward but really good food (pizza, tacos) and considering the popularity of some of the city’s newer wine bars featuring fabulous small plates (Frenchie, Verjus), I think Sherry Butt would do well to move in this direction. I don’t think there’s really a cocktail bar at the moment seriously doing a successful hybrid of good tapas and cocktails. I also think that would bring in an earlier evening crowd.

So if you find yourself near Bastille, do yourself a favor and skip the crap cocktails at cut-rate prices and give Sherry Butt a try. They are off to a promising start and, if they focus on reading their early customer base and adapt and react as necessary, they could assert quite a personality. They grow up so fast, don’t they?

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