Art Deco Cocktail Adventures: L’Etage at Les Jalles

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L’Etage
14 Rue des Capucines
75002 Paris
01 42 61 66 71

I don’t really spend all of my time drinking and eating.  I also spend a lot of time reading, researching, writing and talking about drinking and eating.  So, naturally, I hear a lot of buzz. When a friend recently called for a restaurant recommendation that was new and cool and trendy and busy and good (in other words: buzzy), I immediately thought of the latest venture from the duo behind the exceedingly popular Volnay: les Jalles.  In the last month, the blogosphere has been nicely noisy about this new eatery.  However, what piqued my curiosity was not the reportedly fantastic food.  It was the buzz I had been hearing about their bar, l’Etage for months prior from some notable cocktail names.

A few days after they opened, Kate and I made our way through the tasteful art deco dining room of les Jalles, up the back stairs to l’Etage to see what hid behind the hype.  We found ourselves in a sophisticated and seductive space, where period appropriate paintings pop against dark walls and sexy staff stands behind the shiny bar in somberly elegant uniform.

Classy style carries through to the menu with its small but strong selection of eight drinks, including a crusta, a julep and a cobbler made with choice ingredients. The man behind the menu is bar manager, Simon, previously of la Conserverie. And, patrons can confidently go off menu considering he not only honed his skills at a great Paris cocktail spot, but has also worked the circuit abroad, including stints in both Australia and London.

My martini was not the first I’ve had from Simon, but was just as consistently good as the previous ones. When he recommended a Martinez as my follow up, I was happy to go that route and mentioned that it ranked highly among my most memorable cocktail experiences, thanks to one several years back London bar, Montgomery Place.  Coincidentally, turns out that’s also the bar he worked in London, so he stirred up a Martinez that was reminiscent of the one I recalled so fondly.  I, also, of course enjoyed a sip Kate’s Bwa-Lele (two types of rum, velvet falernum, lime and tiki bitters) and was particularly impressed with the presentation of her Calvados Crusta, which came in a glass entirely coated with fine sugar.

I stopped in for another visit last night and Simon started me off with a personalized concoction of gin, Suze, celery bitters, Noilly Pratt and fresh coriander.  This wouldn’t be a drink for everyone, but it was just right for me: something strong, dry and bitter with a fresh & herby nose thanks to the coriander.  I followed with a Sazerac, for which they normally use Rittenhouse Rye, but in this case, Simon broke out a bottle of Michter’s US1 Straight Rye that he had just brought back from New York. I found the Michter’s a bit sweeter and less complex than many ryes, which made for an easily sippable Sazerac that will please a larger range of palettes.  Word is that the menu will be updated soon, but the Bwa-Lele and Crusta will likely remain.

An absinthe fountain on the bar gets occasional use.  On a side note, I think it would be great to see more bars doing absinthe drips.  While it’s becoming more common to see fountains in bars and many consider it a bit passé in the constant quest for something new and unusual in the cocktail world, I don’t believe it’s been fully explored and pushed beyond its novelty aspect.  In a city whose population is familiar with Pernod and which is historically no stranger to the green fairy, more bars could cultivate a taste for it in their customer base.

Drink prices are slightly above average at 16 Euros each, but those wanting the atmosphere with something a little less spendy can enjoy an aperitif at a reasonable 5 to 9 Euros.

L’Etage will attract a crowd of sophisticated urbanites looking to while away a few hours over a well made drink and listening to smoky jazz numbers from the current musical attraction and French chanteuse, Caroline Nin.

Despite high quality quaffs, excellent bar staff and an elegant environment, the bar is still relatively undiscovered as everyone rushes to the restaurant downstairs.  But, my guess is that won’t last for long once the bar buzz gets going. So, get there before everyone else does.

CCCP Cocktail Adventures: the Kremlin

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Kremlin
6 rue andre Antoine
75018 Paris

Pigalle’s seediness attracts a slew of curious tourists and looky-loos who giggle at sex shop windows and dodge propositions from sketchy clubs. What other neighborhood’s more questionable side is celebrated by an eponymous vodka with a red light on the label? But, this little pocket of Paris is going through a gradual change.  Hipster bars are replacing hostess clubs and it’s taking on trendy abbreviated monikers.  Now it even has its own brand of champagne.  Is Pigalle slowly cleaning up its act?!

Maybe. Recently the team behind UFO and l’Orange Mecanique set their sites on NoPi and turned a girlie club into Paris’ newest communist era themed bar, the Kremlin.  Gone are the ladies in short skirts lingering by the door.  They’ve been replaced by a lively lot of locals looking for a different kind of good time. Now, bar hoppers sink into flea-market furniture or play foosball while sipping drinks bearing soviet-inspired names.

The chalkboard menu offers fifteen cocktails. I started with a Stalin’s Final Word, which is a riff on a Final Ward made with Rittenhouse Rye and curiously topped with cinnamon.  Proportions were good, ingredients were top shelf and execution was correct.  Not only is a Final Ward an easy cocktail to enjoy, but the inclusion of its variation on the menu indicates some cocktail cognizance. It’s a drink more likely to be discussed on cocktail blogs and less likely to be found on your basic bobo bar menu.

On the other hand, they haven’t gotten it exactly right, calling it a Final Word (as opposed to Ward). That’s not an entirely uncommon mistake since it’s a riff on the Last Word. But, it still left me wondering: do they know what they are doing or not?  I was less impressed with the martini: Broker’s gin shaken with a bit of Lillet resulting in a sweeter rather than dry drink.

Notwithstanding, I appreciate the fact that their menu is reaching beyond the basics at reasonable prices of 8 to 11 Euros with choices that are more inspired than many spots in the area. For example, the Red Star is a mix of mescal, fresh beetroot and Carpano Antica Formula.  Again, not the stuff of standard menus in the city.  Only five of the fifteen drinks are vodka-based, which I think is a reasonable number for a bar that channels Mother Russia.

And, while vodka comprises the largest range of brands, the other spirits provide some nice options given their small shelf space. The gins include Beefeater, Brokers and the limited edition Botanist.  And once again, not what you would find on many Paris menus.

While, the Kremlin can’t compete with Paris’ upper echelon of cocktail bars, they don’t have to.  They are a step above the average, turning out nice drinks, avoiding bottom shelf booze and bringing in a fun and lively crowd. This new nightspot is a good example of two things: The gentrification of Pigalle and the spread of better cocktail options and ingredients turning up in unexpected places as a result of the now full-blown Paris cocktail craze.  Just as Pigalle straddles the seedy and scenester worlds, the Kremlin’s cocktail approach straddles the craft and the casual.

Happy Hour Cocktail Adventures: l’Empire

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L’Empire
48, rue de l’Arbre sec
75001 Paris

Life gets busy. I’m lucky to have lots of fun things to do and – even better – lots of even funner people to hang with. But, recently I’ve been a bit all over the place and realized I’m missing out on some of my nearest and dearests.  So, Jodie and I made a point to have a girlie catch up over some nibbles and drinks at the l’Empire Hotel.

L’Empire is a 4 star hotel steps away from the Louvre that offers up a generous happy hour from 19h to 22h. Jod and I arrived at the start of this happy hour to find the place packed with other partakers. While nice enough, it seems to try a bit too hard to be elegant. There was a whiff of 80’s – which can be retro-cool – but this smelled of budget for a hotel that commands 400 to 1,000 Euros per night. I love the comfy, faux-suede arm chairs, but the light blue ambient lighting, big screen TV and black ceramic vases take it down a notch for me.  But, they do have a small terrace, which is a bonus.

The menu features thirty-some-odd choices and includes classics like a Sazarac, non-classics like the Killer Vacation, and house creations, which all ring in at half price during happy hour (meaning around 6 Euros a glass.)  The barman was working the room solo, so I cut him some slack for the fact that it took over thirty minutes to get some drinks in front of us. When it did arrive, my Bombay Sapphire/Noilly Pratt martini came shaken in a chilled glass with an olive and I suspect a bit of olive juice as it tasted a bit dirty.  While it wasn’t the best martini I’ve had, it was a welcome sip for the price and given my crazy week.

Jodie’s Maria du Maquis (a tequila based bloody mary version) didn’t sing, but went down nicely enough.  I followed with a Troya in which I liked the grapefruit juice bite. Jodie’s Sazarac was good, but absinthe heavy. Being a girlie gossip night, we went all out with a third order and my breakfast martini had an appreciable balance of sweet and sour. Jodie’s Tipperary followed the standard recipe as far as ingredients, but I’m not sure on proportions. It wasn’t my favorite of the bunch. Chartreuse is a great addition to many a cocktail, but it can sometimes overpower, as it seemed to in this one.

In short, I find the menu (like me at the moment) a bit all over the place.  It’s a mix of standard cocktails and off the beaten paths with no discernable underlying connection between them all. I also find pricing for their three gins a bit topsy-turvy: Hendrick’s: 11 Euros; Beefeater: 12 Euros; Bombay Sapphire: 13 Euros.

Tasty tapenade toasts came with the drinks. But, given our three drink night, we opted for an additional plate of fries.  Although we ordered one, two plates of crispy delicious chips came out with tiny condiment jars of mustard, mayo and ketchup that tickled me – I do love miniatures.

While we found some of the drinks hit and miss, we adored the barman, Simon. I must give him props for manning the entire operation alone: shaking, stirring, spinning, socializing and overseeing.

He even brought us out a little sample of another drink the London Bramble.  Big up to Simon.

In general, would I go there as a cocktail destination? No. But, I had a long overdue chatty, girlie night at a great price, and it’s a sweet spot to have in your back pocket for something better than average around the Louvre. Drink demands aside, the two of us had one of our best nights in a long time. While it won’t be one of my recs for the best cocktails, it will be one of my recs for an above-average cocktail happy hour that includes service with a cute smile to boot.

Last Call Cocktail Adventures: Ritz Hemingway Bar

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Bar Hemingway, the Ritz
15 Place Vendôme
75001 Paris

As I’ve mentioned in prior posts, every Easter my good friend, Kate, comes up from Geneva for a long weekend devoted to indulgent drinks and dinners, which always includes a visit to a swank hotel bar. This year we took our tradition to the Ritz for one last drink from world-renowned barman, Colin Field, before it closes for a 2+ year renovation on April 16.

It’s difficult to separate the bar Hemingway from the man who’s been at its helm for the past 18 years.  Always the consummate gentlemen, Colin’s charisma and charm are legendary.  A few years ago, I took a Ritz cocktail course and learned more than I expected. Ironically in such a chi chi locale, I was reminded of how detrimental cocktail snobbery can be.  In today’s craft cocktail network, it’s easy to fall into group think. “We hate vodka.” “We drink shots of Fernet.” “We wouldn’t deign to make a mojito.” But, Colin’s been in the business since before many of today’s cocktail rock stars were of legal drinking age. And, over the past decades, he’s developed his own approach to the profession, incorporating his beliefs about what a cocktail experience should be for the customer.

So what I learned from him was not to start loving vodka. Instead, I learned to stop hating it just because every other cocktaillian did. In an era when prohibition style bars are de rigor and bartenders sometimes fall prey to seeking out hard to source ingredients just because every one else does, my interactions with him reminded me that to have a more comprehensive understanding of the world of cocktails, it must be examined through its history and future possibilities as well as the current cocktail trends.

Along with the Ritz, Colin has built himself into a brand that goes beyond just the business of building a cocktail. Soon we’ll be able to buy the Colin Field watch, complete with his signature on the face for a cool 2,000 Euros. Bringing out his iPad, he showed Kate and I a picture of the time-piece and then signed a coaster and held it up next to the photo to compare. And this is the essence of Colin.  He doesn’t just make a drink.  He makes an effort to interact with his clientele. By the time I left, I also had the name and number of his dentist.

 

In keeping with this interactive tradition, he’s known for creating concoctions that fit the mood, style and needs of a customer. So, instead of my usual martini, I asked him to create something for me.  What I got was a Colin Field special: Grey Goose Poire, apple juice, a bit of citrus and a single red rose as a garnish. Even with an open mind, vodka is one of the last spirits I’d pick from the shelf, so I was much more interested in Kate’s drink: the Ciboulette cocktail (cognac, apple liqueur, lemon juice, and griotte cherries with a champagne topper)  Why would this drink that has nothing to do with chives be called ciboulette (French for chives)? Before I even wondered myself, Colin told us that it was the name of the pet bunny belonging to the man who created it.

I’ve never been shy about stating my opinion that many luxury hotels charge unjustifiably high prices for a drink. But I was happy to pay the price last night to raise a glass to a venerable barman. Because even though vodka is not my spirit of choice, a lot more went into my drink than just the booze.  And if you want to partake in a bit of the history that is the Ritz, make haste because they close next week.

 

Mini-me cocktail adventures: Why Paris Monge

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Why Paris Monge
32 Rue Monge
75005 Paris

You might not think it, but I’m actually an introvert. I’m not a narcissistic internet-fame seeker nor do I feel particularly comfortable in large groups of people I don’t know. But… I love my blog. Mainly because it gives me the opportunity to interact  with and get to know all of you fab readers, Parisphiles and cocktail enthusiasts. And that makes me want to take it further. So, I’m working on an iPhone app for 52 Martinis, which is taking more time than I expected. And, it’s taking time away from the actual blog. And, it’s making me revisit some old stomping grounds to see if they’re still up to scratch. But, it’s hard to keep up with prior reviews when old bars keep spawning new locations.  The Why bar, which I reviewed back in ’09 has just opened a second location.  So, of course I had to try the new one….

The original Why, under the ownership of Christophe Darmon, hit the Paris scene about four years ago with multiple trendy magazine mentions and a bit of buzz about the deconstructed cocktails.  At the time, I thought he was making his own way in the cocktail world by avoiding the general ‘scene’ and bringing something festive and fun to the table while still remaining affordable.  And that’s exactly what he’s doing with his new bar, Why Paris Monge.

Located in an arrondissement laden with student bars and divey drink options, Why Monge is bringing a better imbibing option to the area, which is still accessible.  This is a good example of what the new wave of cocktail culture has encouraged in Paris: low key, fun locales that surprise with their choice of spirits and a drink selection that goes beyond the basics.

The menu remains a mix of classics and house creations, including the deconstructed cocktails at pocket-friendly prices of 8 to 10 Euros. That combined with the mellow atmosphere makes it an easy spot in which to pass a casual evening with friends. As with the original, upper-end bar snacks further encourage staying in your seat to continue sipping and socializing.

Matt, Vio and Thibault joined me, so along with my stirred Beefeater 24 & Dolin martini, I was able to sample several drinks off the menu – albeit, ones I probably wouldn’t have gone for myself as my friends have different tastes in drinks than I do. And that’s precisely why the Why works for me.  I can have a nicely-made martini while someone else can order up a butterscotch-fest of a Bee Sting.

In terms of deco, the new bar is a virtual mini-me of the original with its stone walls, dark brown accents and slick vinyl furniture.  Their latest incarnation also offers up a lunch option for those who want a bit of noon-time sustenance.

In short, the latest Why is a laid back little spot that is a breath of fresh air amongst the usual bars you’ll find around Monge. They’re not trying to compete with Paris’ latest wave of craft cocktail bars.  They’re just trying to put out some good drinks and give their customers a good time.

Four Years Later Cocktail Adventures: Beef Club Ballroom

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Beef Club Ballroom
58, rue Jean Jacques Rousseau
Paris 75001

52 Martinis began four years ago, a fortuitous time. While my interest in cocktails goes back further, it was then that I found France’s wine culture alone wasn’t enough for me.  I wanted the option to occasionally indulge my cocktail cravings formed in the US and fed by frequent travel.  Around the same time, a French trio was looking to indulge as well and had recently opened the Experimental Cocktail Club, kick starting Paris’ cocktail resurgence and providing the venue for my first Wednesday Cocktail Adventure. Since then, I’ve got over a hundred bar reviews under my belt, and the trio has just opened their fifth Paris location: the Beef Club.

The day after their opening, Kim and I made our way down the long, dark spiral staircase that leads to the below ground bar to see if it maintains their cocktail momentum.  My first impression is that this seems a more ambitious venture than their Paris priors with its soon to open restaurant and notable involvement of butcher Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec and Tim Wilson of London’s Hawksmore.

My next impression is that the cocktail menu of 8 choices is small but solid.  This family of bars has always showcased quality ingredients and superior drinks inline with the latest of cocktail trends. And while I have the impression that this establishment is geared slightly more to the club crowd than the cocktail loungers, they haven’t pandered with the menu.

As with their other bars, there are a couple of more easy-going options for the casual consumer that may end up being the most often ordered off the menu. My money’s on their cardamom infused Fair Vodka based Pondichery Mule – unless the clientele embraces the absinthe aspect of the Marilou along with its sloe gin and champagne.

But, also like their other bars, they take it further. They confidently incorporate interesting ingredients into their short but sweet menu without shying away from those that might require a more acquired taste. I like seeing a French gentian based beverage brought into play with the Salers Smash, which is balanced in a way that lets the bitterness surprise without taking over. The egg white in the Concombre fumant gives this tequila based cocktail a consistency that compliments its smoky side but also provides a nice playground for the piment. And, prices remain in a range of 12 – 14 Euros.

This team is diligently sticking with the formula that’s made their successful reputation: quality ingredients, knowledgeable staff and a stylish décor in which to linger over lovely creations. Considering the place was packed within minutes of opening its doors the night we arrived, I’d say it’s a formula that’s working for them.

Note: Kim also posted more pics and thoughts from the evening that you can read on her post at I Heart Paris.

DIY Martini Adventures: Jefrey’s update

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Jefrey’s
14, Rue St Sauveur
75002 Paris

Due to the nature of this blog, I write about all my experiences: the good, the bad and the bubbly. While I don’t consider my reviews the final word on any bar, I do try to maintain the credibility of my personal impressions.  To do that, I stick to my own opinion, take a deep breath, and hit ‘publish’ without stressing that it won’t please everyone. One of the uncomfortable consequences of this is that sometimes I hear back from bar owners who aren’t so pleased with my impressions.

Which brings me to a recent mail from the owner of Jefrey’s, also a reader of 52 Martinis, who got in touch after my recent review.  I don’t intentionally set out to make anyone feel bad, so I appreciated his attitude that critics can push one to improve and happily accepted his invitation to come for the launch of their new cocktail menu and DIY Martini.

On the night of the launch party, I chatted with the friendly owners who are admittedly beginners but passionate about creating a welcoming environment and a great bar. Granted, it’s tough to judge a place when the drinks are free and party atmosphere is buzzing, but I think they’re making conscientious steps towards stepping up their game.

First off, the menu prices seem to have dropped slightly so they are more in line with other spots on the street and we’re seeing fewer sweet and more sophisticated options, like the Jefrey’s sazerac. While the menu still has plenty to please those who go the cosmo route, there are now more options for something a bit saucier.

Of particular interest to me, is their DIY Martini.  Customers create bespoke martinis using a printed checklist to choose brand and dosage of spirits, garnish, preparation and extras like a dash of orange bitters. A box at the bottom of the form allows you to fill in the name your creation. Of course, I could always go into a bar and simply tell them how I want my martini, but not everyone is a fanatic and might not know how to order what they want.  This method gives those that are less familiar with the makings of a martini the confidence to choose and the opportunity to learn a bit more about the king of cocktails.

This method also allows more control over the size and cost of the martini as the price is based on dosage. For example, a centiliter of Tanqueray is 2 Euros. So, you build your martini to size, which is reflected in the end price.  Martini-virgins can sample a small one or curious cocktillians can try several variations without emptying their wallets or falling off the barstools.

I skipped over the vodka choices (SKYY, Ketel One, Belvedere and Christiana) and went straight for the gin with a stirred 1 to 4 part Noilly Prat and Tanqueray martini with a twist.  While I’d love to see more choices of gin, their selection of three works.  Tanqueray provides a classic choice, Hendrick’s ups their trendy cocktail cred, and Caorunn gives a taste of something not found in most Paris bars.

So, kudos to Jefrey’s for working towards bigger and better things.  Just as I can’t please every reader, no bar can please every drinker. But, I’m not in the business of selling drinks, so I do respect those who are for making the effort.

Opulent Cocktail Adventures: Laperouse

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Laperouse
51 quai des Grands Augustins
75006 Paris
Tél : 01 43 26 68 04

This long-standing Paris institution with its over the top opulence enjoys a racy past.  The private restaurant rooms have been – and probably still are – the setting for an illicit tryst or two.  Courtesans used to scratch their diamonds on the mirrors to test for authenticity and gentlemen usually arrived via the secret stairway entrance.  I’ve always loved the downstairs bar decor and was curious to see what changes came with the recent new bar management of Julien Mairesse.

Along with the antique mirrors, the elegance and grandeur remains. Red velvet Chesterfields provide the perfect seating for romantic rendezvous, while candles and dim lamps provide the appropriate mood lighting for current-day coquettes. The dark wood paneling and Persian carpets complete the scene of sophistication.

The cocktail selection, however, makes a complete deviation from the classic.  Although not on the menu, I ordered a dry martini. It was a disappointment even in such lovely surroundings: a glass of Martini dry vermouth stirred in Tanqueray rinsed ice.

The revamped cocktail menu separates options by spirit and gives each drink a female’s name inline with the spirit.  The Gin section features four or so Bombay Sapphire based cocktails with names like Pippa.  Under Vodka drinks you’ll find the Aksana, made with Grey Goose and both light and dark crème de cacao. Rhum drinks with monikers like Maria are made with Bacardi. And so forth. After the failed martini attempt, I tried a Marilyn (rye, red vermouth and chartreuse) which was actually made with Dewar’s scotch.

Service was acceptable and I did enjoy the truffled mousse feuilletés that came with the drinks.  However, at 18 to 20 Euros per drink, on my next visit to enjoy the luxurious lounge, I’ll play it safe with a simple glass of champagne.

Dandy Cocktail Adventures: the Art Room

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The Art Room
13 rue Tiquetonne
75002 Paris

The newly opened Art Room is a fashion dandy’s dream with three floors of carefully calculated frivolity. The main floor is a glossy black cube with films projected on the walls, reproduction chairs and super-stylish chandeliers.  From there, you can take a seat upstairs in the miniscule loft or head downstairs where flash meets fashion in a mixture of sequined walls, simple white pod chairs and antique accents.  They clearly have an aesthetic in mind and manage to successfully marry different styles to create their own unique statement.  This extends to the bar stock as well, where bottles seem to be displayed by design rather than content resulting in a curio cabinet feel.  Alongside the spirits are tinctures, bitters, sprays and decanters of various shapes and sizes holding house recipes like cinnamon and gold leaf infused vodka.

The barman has a high-end hotel background so is presumably familiar with the standards. However, their menu focuses on their sixteen house creations which are named only by number: Secret No. 1, Secret No. 2, etc.  Yet they even manage to make their mark on the classics as my martini came with a spray of rosemary essence.  The Secret series of cocktails have a concept feel which is emphasized by the byline accompanying each one such as “La Resurrection Scandaleuse”

One of the owners explained that they are focusing on fresh ingredients and creating cocktails influenced by French culinary culture rather than just following today’s mixology trends.  This results in a menu focused on fresh ingredients and homemade infusions, which I appreciate.  The downside is that there is some inconsistency in the nuances of each cocktail. I love the elegant simplicity of No. 15 (Champagne and rose, with rosebuds floats) but there are too many ingredients fighting for front and center in the bright blue No. 7 (Gin, ginger, blue curacao, passion fruit pearls and lime.) No. 10 will please casual clientele, but I could use a bigger whiskey kick in it to make it a more interesting cocktail. And, I’m curious about the more adventurous No. 6 with rhum, apple, black tea, cloves and cinnamon served warm with a beetroot cube.

I respect the philosophy of fresh ingredients and unique cocktails, but I think they need to tweak the menu just slightly so that each Secret shines rather than having a handful of standouts to justify 16 to 18 Euros a drink. At those prices customers must to be willing to splash out the cash for the ultra-cool scene rather than just the drinks.

Panoramic Cocktail Adventures: La Vue

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La Vue
3 Place Gen Koenig
75017 Paris
01 40 68 51 98

The last time I drank at the Hotel Concorde Lafayette I was slurping Smurfs.  So, after the recent overhaul of this lofty lounge, I once again took the elevator up to the 34th floor to see what Italian designer Pier Luigi Copat and Cocktail Zone’s Mixologist of the Year for 2009, Stephen Martin, would bring to the new bar.

No sign of the prior old-school style remains. In its place is an updated version of Miami Vice meets the Jetsons. A modern 11,000-glass rod chandelier dominates the room diffusing an alternating array of pastel to near neon green, pink and violet light.  Retro chairs are grouped around simple, low, round tables and tall stools line the 15-meter long sleek metal bar.

I pulled up a stool alongside the wall-to-wall window for a martini with Bombay Original, which was icy cold and made with pleasing gin to vermouth proportions. The gin selection seems to have a little something for everyone with Bombay Original, Gordon’s, Beefeater, Bombay Sapphire, Tanqueray, Tanqueray 10, Hayman’s Old Tom, Hendricks and Sipsmith. But, even with the panoramic view, 25 Euros is a high price tag for a well-made martini. I’d also like to see a few bar snacks come with a drink in that range.

The menu is a mix of old and historically significant recipes, mass-appealers like the mojito and house creations ranging from vanilla-flavored vodka choices to bitters or bourbon based imbibes that will please a more mature palate (one of which comes with the instructions not to drink it unless you are over 50.)  Martin’s menu illustrates his familiarity with the cocktail world with homage to Schumann (Gimlet a la Schumann’s) and a shout out to cocktail historian, David Wondrich, for the Chanticleer cocktail.

The cocktail menu also works la Vue’s lux angle with its separation of regular spirits listings from the “luxury best spirits.” For a fiver or so more, you can go from ‘bottom shelf’ to big spender with a Sipsmith gin, Banks Rhum, Calle 23 Tequila or Purity Vodka. All of these attention-getter brands are prevalent at cocktail salons and conferences.  However, for my taste there’s some disparity in the selection.  For example, while I think Sipsmith is an excellent choice in gin, Banks Rhum is better for mixing and I would have chosen something that could stand alone stronger for a ‘luxury rhum.’

The night of my visit shortly after their launch was a mix of splashy scenesters and view-seeking tourists.  And the view is spectacular. But, at a price.